DIY Pottery Barn Dupe Tutorial: Dolores Console Cabinet
In this tutorial, I’m telling you step-by-step how I DIY’d a dupe of the Pottery Barn Dolores Console Table. It’s a DIY any beginner could do!
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If you’ve been here for a while, you know that I typically have very expensive taste in furniture. I’ll often fall for a piece of furniture and then toy with the idea of purchasing it for weeks or months, unable to talk myself into splurging.
I have two kiddos to put through school and a house I’m renovating after all.
Over the years, though, I’ve figured a few ways to save big on furniture so I can get that designer look for A LOT less. I wrote about 3 of those budget saving hacks HERE.
Today, I’ve got another tip for saving big on designer furniture so that what you get is just as good, if not better, than the designer piece as a fraction of the cost!
My Inspiration: The Pottery Barn Dolores Console Cabinet
I love the look of this cabinet. The lighter wood, sleek lines, movement of the monochromatic texture of the cane…I love it
I’ve been wanting something like this for the living room TV console cabinet, where we stash all of the kids’ toys that aren’t in the basement playroom.
However, this piece is regularly priced at $2,199 and I would actually need 2 to fit my space. So, I decided I needed to find another way.
The Furniture I Decided to Hack
I started with this cabinet off of Wayfair: the Ormar 31.5″ Wide Server. I knew I wanted lamps to fit on each side of the TV and that meant I needed 3 of these cabinets together.
Luckily, the cabinet was 35% off when I purchased 3 of them, but even at full price, it’s very reasonable!
How the Cabinets Looked Before
I loved the length with the 3 cabinets together.
However, you could see everything in them. It looks super messy and disorganized, no matter how organized it is.
So, it needed something more just to hide all of the toys, but I also wanted to add some texture and warmth to carry the nature textures from the rug forward.
So, let’s talk about how I transformed or upcycled this piece.
Step 1: First, Gather Materials
First, I measured the glass length and width and ordered enough cane webbing that would cover the glass and give me a little room for mistakes. It’s always better, in my opinion, to air on the side of caution when it comes to ordering materials, especially when it’s not something you can just run right out and pick up at the store.
I get all of my cane webbing from Frank’s Cane and Rush Supply out of California. The owner is so kind and will answer any and all questions for you. I first found Frank’s when I hacked the IKEA Hemnes dressers I wrote about here.
In fact, when you order, you select what you think you need for your project and then his company will call you to make sure you’re getting the right thing before collecting payment. I felt really confident in my choices after talking to him both times I’ve ordered from his company.
In addition to the fine radio weave bleached cane webbing, I ordered reed spline to put around the outside of the glass so that the cane webbing edges would be covered.
Finally, I ordered Gorilla hot glue sticks. I did a little research because I was concerned with the hot glue sticking to the glass, particularly in the long term. Gorilla’s hot glue consistently came up as one of the best, most durable and long lasting.
Step 2: Cut the Cane Webbing
If your cane comes in a roll, like most will, you will want to have a few heavy books or picture frames, etc, to flatten it.
You can measure the cane in 1 of 2 ways. First, you can use a measuring tape and a right angle to trace the shape of the glass out.
What I did, though, was lay the cane on the glass, holding it down with a heavy book, and tracing the glass directly on the cane.
Just make sure that the cane is straight before you start to trace it.
Once you have the outline, cut it out with a sharp pair of scissors.
Step 3: Measure and Cut the Reed Spline
The reed spline will also likely come rolled up. Mine was very pliable and easily straightened.
However, if yours is tougher to straighten, you can always soak it in water, straighten it, and let it dry.
Again, you can measure each segment of the glass and cut it, but I laid it against the edge of the glass, marked the point I needed to cut it at, or cut it.
I cut the ends flat but you could always cut them at an angle if you’d rather.
Keep in mind that once you place one piece, the length of the sides that adjoin it, will be shorter.
Step 4: Secure the Cane and Spline at the Same Time
I applied one line of hot glue and secured the cane and the spline at the same time. That way, the spline still fit snuggly against the edge of the cabinet.
If I used one line of glue for the cane, let it dry, and then apply another for the spline, it would most likely dry above the edge of the cabinet.
That’s why it’s important to have the cane cut and in place and the spline straight and cut before you put the glue down.
Step 5: Clean Up the Hot Glue
Let the hot glue cool a bit and then peel off the extra glue that spilled over. It should ball up under your fingers if you use a circular motion over it.
Step 6: Repeat Until All Glass is Covered
How Much Money Did I Save?
I spent $475 on the whole project, cabinets, cane, spine, and hot glue. That means that I saved over $1,700 making my own console cabinet rather than purchasing the Dolores cabinet. Not only that, but I got a much bigger piece of furniture and like my cabinet better.
I love how big of an impact this makes in our room already. The piece is beautiful and looks expensive. Thankfully, it wasn’t! Have you upcycled or hacked a piece of furniture lately? I’d love to hear about it! You can post below or tag me on Instagram!